Songkran 2557/2014

Cultural Note: Songkran Festival is the celebration of the Traditional Thai New Year. According to Thai tradition/Buddhist belief, the current year is 2557. The Western calendar system has been widely adapted, so most calendars show both the Western/Christian year and the Thai/Buddhist year beginning in January to minimize confusion.

Songkran Festival takes place over the course of three days (April 13 - 15).  During this time, people take time to honor their elders and family members, and participate in religious activities. The highlight of Songkran is water. Some events include the pouring of water on hands or over the heads of others, at home I helped my host mom to gather and wash all of her religious tokens, and most folks go out to the streets with hoses, buckets, barrels, water guns filled with water (ice cold water!) to douse all passers-by and bystanders. I've heard different theories about the heavy symbolism of water in this tradition, the three major themes are 1) Asking the spirits for relief from heat (basically ushering in the rainy season, it's summer time right now) 2) Extending blessings and well wishes unto others 3) Blessing others by relieving them from the heat.

This year, Songkran started on a Monday, which resulted in a five-day weekend and a two-day work week. Most of my holiday was spent at home with my host family. It was actually very good bonding time, I ate an average of four meals a day (even helped to prepare a couple), and I got to catch up on some much needed and appreciated relaxation. We did participate in two activities, one was a small community event for the elderly, and the other was "Party Foam" (yes, foam party). There were other activities planned that didn't work out for various reasons, nonetheless, I really and truly enjoyed the weekend. I'm already looking forward to being active in next year's events.

I got the job as P' Em's Registration Assistant. Minimal Language Requirements.

Dancing with the folks. If the spirits are happy, then we will be blessed with rain!

I guess they were very happy, this stuff really works!
(Shoes courtesy of my host mom since my only waterproof shoes are flip flops)

Here are a few clips from my outing:

Next on the my community's social calender is Bun Bang Fai (Rocket Festival) which will be taking place at the beginning of next month. Bun Bang Fai is an Isaan tradition and happens in my community once every other year, so I'm hoping to get the absolute most out of it. I've already been nominated to participate in the parade, but my host mother advised that if I participate in the parade, I will not get to see it, and I should see it. And I agree. I'm already looking forward to it.

Thai culture is so very rich. I'm looking forward to every cultural and traditional experience that I will immerse myself into during my time here, and I will be sure to share along the way, so stay tuned!

Integrating.

Since being in my new community, my main focus has been integration. Integrating largely involves meeting people, getting to know my community as a whole, and figuring out where I fit in. This often requires me to step out of my comfort zone. People who know me know that I love my comfort zone, but I'm expanding my horizons every single day. Sometimes multiple times a day. Here are a few of my integration experiences:

At a school's promotion exercise, I met the principal and a couple teachers, one of the teachers whispered to me that Teacher C-- was coming and that I should meet him too. I first heard the name even before I entered my community; Mr. C--, English Teacher, from Cameroon, very nice man. In fact, obviously noting my skin color, many locals assume that I am also from Cameroon and respond with raised eyebrows when I explain that I am an American. Schools are on summer vacation at the moment, so I wasn't expecting to meet this famous teacher until school reopened, but he did show up to address to his students, as he finished his speech, I was called to join the stage. This interaction was super awkward for several reasons, but we got through it quite gracefully. I had to leave before the ceremony was over, and haven't had any interaction since, but I'm sure we'll meet again.

Meeting Mr. C.

I attended the wedding of my Mayor's son. It was a lovely event, quite casual and relaxed. The bride and groom, their families, and wedding participants dress up, but guests are more "smart casual" in their attire. This was one event where I got to be more of an observer than a participant... at least for a while. I did get to take a picture with the bride and groom, and then after the show was over, I found myself in the center of a ton of photos. I've actually gotten used to people snapping pictures of me in the market with camera phones, or grabbing my arm and pulling me into a pose for a friend already armed with a camera, but this night was different. I'm not a person who typically enjoys being the center of attention, but I found it quite fun and funny actually. Some people introduced themselves, most didn't bother, and it was at least ten minutes of picture taking before I was able to leave. 

Blushing Bride and Groom. And my new English Speaking Friend, Bea!

Yes Sir, we can take a picture. Nice to meet you by the way. 

At that point, I realized that my host mom and one of the teachers were nodding and giggling about something, my celeb status maybe? Before I could get curious enough, I was summoned to be the major (or mayor?) for the community sports day event. My title got lost in translation, but basically, I understood that I would be dressed up, in a mini skirt, and I would lead a march. 

On the night of the fitting, I had three options, I did not choose the mini skirt. In fact, I underestimated the heat of the day, and chose what I thought was the classiest outfit, not thinking that it would be sweltering when it was time to hit the road... The outfit needed no alterations, so the fitting did not last very long. We agreed that I should go home, get some sleep, and meet back in the morning at 5:00 a.m. to dteng-naa gap dteng-dtuua -- literally adorn my face and my body, but really, do make-up and get dressed. 

Suuai mai? (Pretty, right?)

I decided to walk back to the house after my fitting since it was only a few minutes away. So, back in my home clothes, walking back to the house, I saw a village meeting in progress. I had met the village leader earlier that day and recognized him as the facilitator. He recognized me too, walking past the meeting area, and he called me inside. He introduced me and I spoke to the group for a minute and answered a few questions. I found myself sitting through the meeting, and I actually understood some of the content. I'm glad that I got to be a part of it.

So when they said Peace Corps Volunteers are on duty 24/7...

Sports Day, summed up in two word: Rohn (HOT) and Sanuuk (FUN!). We started my day at 5:00 am with a make-up session. I brought my own brown makeup for obvious reasons, we used it, but I somehow ended up with a white face anyway. All part of the costume. I had lots of fun, received lots of compliments, and managed to avoid melting in the 100°F sun. I was beyond happy to get to go home in the middle of the day to shower. I returned to the event and enjoyed the sports activities, even did a little cheerleading. I got to meet a ton of people throughout the day, and had a really great time.

Full Thai Traditional. Who is that lady in red?

Leading the village in the parade.

Cheerleading with my village members. Pink Team!

One thing I love about this community (and this country!) is the genuine care, respect, and value given to the elderly population. The Community Health Center and City Hall Officials make home visits through various villages every week, and monthly pension is delivered in person, in cash. I really love this hands-on approach. One of the officers suggested that I teach the seniors English on these visits, but I'm not sure how beneficial that would be to them. I'm actually able to have pretty decent (sometimes even humorous) conversations with them in Thai... Like when this one lady held on to my hands as she asked the usual questions: where are you from, how long have you been in Thailand, do you like Thai food, do you have a boyfriend, do you think Thai men are handsome, do you want a Thai boyfriend? At this point, she began to really examine my palms, and she said that she saw a lot of boyfriends. I took my hand away and said "mai chai" (not correct), she said "chai, chai" (yes, correct) and winked at me. She was hilarious. So, this boyfriend business is a common curiosity among Thai people, sometimes the conversation gets uncomfortable, but I'm learning ways around it.

Able-bodied seniors meet at a central area in the village to collect their cash pension.

Home bound seniors are visited by the community health center and city hall officials

A couple senior "sports" going on in the background, but this was my activity of choice.
My young eyes and steady arms were much appreciated for needle-threading :-)
Oh, and there's nothing in my eye, I checked after I saw this picture...
And the strings on my wrists were given as part of a blessing ritual.
To ensure good luck, I must wear them for at least seven days, and remove them without cutting...

Today I had the opportunity to participate in a senior social event. It was a great day, sanuuk sanuuk (very fun), but the best part was when I had the opportunity to pay respect to the elders by pouring water on their hands, some of them splashed water on my shoulder as a blessing. It was incredibly humbling. Although I'm here to work with youth, I can see myself continuing to be involved with this population.

They are darlings!

The best part of my day. 

So humbled...

Speaking of water, Songkran festival begins in a couple days. I've been hearing about it for a while, it's the celebration of the Thai New Year and it involves splashing people with water in the street (and being splashed)! I've been looking forward to it for a while. Stay tuned!

One Week In

Here stands an official United States Peace Corps Volunteer in service to the
Royal Government of Thailand

Following my last post was my Swearing-In Ceremony in conjunction with the Close of Service Ceremony for the group that came in two years ago. Apparently, this is the first time that the two ceremonies took place at the same time, and I can't imagine a better way to begin or end my service. It was inspiring to hear their stories and look forward to what is to come, and I would love to be able to experience looking back when I reach the finish line. After the ceremony, we got to mingle for a bit, have lunch, say goodbyes, then finally, hit the road. My journey to my new home was nine hours long but I made it, safe and sound.

Newly Sworn-In Volunteers

Saying Goodbye to my first aa-jaan and language classmates

Meeting my RanNayoke (Deputy Mayor) who was our driver for nine hours.

I've been at my site for about a week now. My new community is so very different from my training community. Here we have wider roads and fewer rice fields, houses are less traditional, there is a different variety of food, and the list can go on and on. The people, as before, are very warm and welcoming, and are very impressed by my limited language ability, even more so by my even more limited ability to speak the local lingo. I'm experiencing the novelty of being the new kid on the block all over again, and trying to establish some sort of a routine.

My New Home :-)
The neighbors come over to play badminton every day.
They've been teaching me the game, and
I've been teaching them Sudoku and English! 

My new family is very nice, and I haven't had any difficulty fitting in. My host mom is really cool and trendy, and she is beyond happy to have a girl around. She has two sons, one my age, but he is away for college, and the other is nineteen and lives at home. Her husband died three years ago, but there is family is around and they help out with different stuff around the house. My first two days at my host home, my host mom dressed me up from hat to shoes, and over the weekend, we did each other's nails. I set up a phone meeting for her and my first host mom, I couldn't understand most of the conversation, but it was over an hour long, and there was lots of laughter on both ends. My host mom said "Kui gap meh suphhan sanuk sanuk" which basically means that she enjoyed the conversation very much. She's made reference to the conversation several times since then, I heard you like to eat fried chicken, we'll eat that tonight, I heard you like to wash your hair with hot water (unresolved misunderstanding) there is hot water in the shower (yaaay!). I'm glad they got to chat, I think that they would like each other in real life, and I hope that they can meet each other soon.

My host mom next to me, my brother and his girlfriend right across from us,
next to them, a cousin who speaks English, and at the end,
cousins/neighbors who help out at the house sometimes.  

I'm getting a new mosquito net soon, and curtains.

A flushing western toilet, and water heater!
I actually got comfortable with the old squatty potty,
but I'm happy that cold baths are a thing of the past.

For the next two years, I will be working out of the Oh-Boh-Tor (OBT), which is kinda like City Hall. I will work with community organizers to plan events and activities for youth in the community. The OBT will be my hub, but I also plan to work with schools in the area and the local health center. I've met a few key people so far, and the next couple of months will be spent mostly building relationships within the community and finding where I best fit in. The folks at the OBT are pretty cool so far, we've done some outings and activities with the health center, and I've visited a couple of the schools, including the Non-Formal Education Center. In quite a few cases, I thought that I was going on a quick school visit and maybe a short meeting with the principal, or maybe an event that I can observe and even participate in, but I somehow end up with a microphone. Fun times.

My New Hub

Speaking at a senior aerobics event
I had a little help with my outfit ;-)

Speaking at a school's promotion exercise.

My Nayoke (Mayor/Supervisor) and officers that I will be working closely with

So far, I haven't had any significant problems with the language difference, apparently, there are four languages spoken around here -- Passa Thai (Standard Thai), Passa Isaan (Local Lingo), Passa Laos (Laos, which influences the local lingo) and Passa Khmer (Cambodian, as Cambodia borders my province). So far, I haven't had any encounters with the latter two. The majority of my time is spent in the work environment where Standard Thai is the norm. At home, I can tell that an effort is made to speak Standard Thai around me, even so, there are some differences, and when folks are speaking among themselves, it's a completely different. I'll get the hang of it eventually, but that's not my focus right now.

As far as food goes, sticky rice is the standard staple here, and it is the norm to eat without utensils, and sometimes without individual dishes - each person reaches into the big bowl of sticky rice, grabs a fist full, ball it up, dip the rice ball into whichever sauce, pick up a piece of meat or veggie, and eat... My first host mom actually demonstrated this to me before I came here, and I laughed and thought "No way" but here I am, and I'm doing it!!  I have tried a few new dishes since I've been here, many of which are pretty tasty, I've also been offered several delicacies, including kai-mot-deng (ant larvae), maleng-saap (cockroach), and gop (frog). I've been advised that the best way around this is "Kəəi gin lɛɛ-o, deh mai chop" (I've eaten it before, but I don't like it - which is true in some instances). This strategy works well, seeing that I've obviously been in country for awhile, and have some degree of acclimation to the culture, otherwise, the pressure would be on for me to 'chim-chim' (taste).

I'm looking forward to experiencing more and sharing more as I go :-)